The .45ACP Mac10. An inexpensive submachinegun with a high rate of fire. I bought mine new in the box, an SWD variant (Texas) which accepts Grease Gun magazines. Mine would not run out of the box. In discussion with the seller, he suggested sending the upper back. The bolt was replaced and that resolved the issue. The gun fires approximately 1200 rpm, and without a good deal of control, accurate shots in burst fire are hard to make. The Suppressor actually helps in this regard by adding a substantial amount of heft to the front of the gun. There are a lot of accessories to address some of the guns weaknesses, some of them pictured below.
The Mac 10 has a reputation as a reliable, if not the most precise submachine gun out there... My experience has been ... well let's just say not that. In fact, statistically speaking, it's my most unreliable firearm. First things first, this gun is cheaply made with cheap materials. However it is simple, so very little can go wrong, and when it does, it's either an easy fix, or the gun is just plain broke. One of the common ailments of the Mac 10 is a phenomenon known (at least commonly referred to) as "trip bounce". This situation manifests itself as full auto on the selector lever, and either only 'burst fire', or interrupted fire or semi auto only fire. The reason for this may become more clear with the image to the right. The "trip" is used to interrupt the bolt movement (prevent full auto in the SEMI setting). A good quick test is to remove this piece from the fire control mechanism and reassemble. It's very easy and almost self explanatory. If the gun works full auto then, you have trip bounce, or a related problem.
Another related problem is 'spring fatigue'. The trigger spring has one end which rests in a recess of the bottom of the frame, right in front of the trigger. The other end holds tension on the trigger "pawl" that pulls down the sear (that's the big thing in the top of the picture). If the spring doesn't hold enough tension, the pawl doesn't pull down fully on the sear, and it leaves the trip loose. A common fix for this is to bend the spring piece toward the front of the gun... Ideally, this would only put more pressure on the pawl and fix the problem. Remember Newton's 3rd law? For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction ???
Mac 10 fire control parts... Nothing complex here.
Click on the center image for a visual on the Mac 10 fire control and some ideas on fixing it.
When the spring is bent forward to compensate for fatigue, a funny, but explainable thing happens, the spring bends underneath the trigger, the spring 'leg' holding the pawl on the trigger "jumps" to the left, the trip jumps up upon recoil and is held in place by the jumped spring leg. You can see the trigger spring wraps around both sides of the trigger. In the picture, the bottom rows have a leg that extends with a short 90 degree bend, that fits into the recess in front of the trigger. This holds the spring in place... Well, kind of...
The upper "leg" of the trigger (upper for the purposes of this picture) extend toward the front of the gun approximately 1 inch. Then, a 90 degree bend toward the "6 o'clock position" in this picture, then that leg that is circled comes up. With the gun apart, after bending that leg forward, everything works fine. That is, until you "load it" by inserting the fire control parts. When you do this, what happens is the 90 degree bend simply slides underneath the trigger (toward the 6 o'clock position in this picture) either totally locking the fire control, or only letting the gun fire semi auto. The leg holding the trigger pawl jumps out and essentially ends the fun. I'm sure there are engineers out there that could figure out in very short order how to design a new spring, modify the fire control, etc. In fact, if they ever see this, they'll probably scoff at my Barrio fix. I say fuck them.
I've heard dozens of people tell me how to bend this spring, so I bought a 6 pack from Cobray. I tried several times with 3 springs, all of which were within 1/10th of an inch on the micrometer before I started. I received the sage advice "make small changes", only bend the spring a little. I tried that (disclaimer: God gave me strong hands, I can break a ceramic coffee mug with either hand, no problem. I'm no surgeon, but I've never injured anyone shaking hands... So I understand and can appreciate the small changes advice....) It only made the spring jump the trip or bind under the trigger.
Funny how all these "keyboard commando" Mac "experts" couldn't produce a working solution. What I needed was 1st hand experience from "A Homey", "'Mano" etc...
You'd be surprised how hard it is to find a banger who's willing to talk... Especially about guns. Anyway, I finally found one by the "alias" Jaime. He clued me in that I needed to weld that spring in place. I popped the Mac Lower out and we discussed it for a bit and came to the conclusion all we needed was to keep that spring from binding underneath the trigger. I thanked Jaime and after thinking about it figured, what the heck? I can fix this with JB weld ! That is, if I had any JB weld So I improvised; I cut a nail to length, then secured it with Gorilla Glue. Anything is better than nothing... I tested it at the range - I bent the hell out of that spring, installed all the fire control parts and all the play and slop between the trigger / sear is GONE. At the range I dumped 4 magazines, and performed varying length bursts w/o a hitch.
Well, I don't remember how many times it's been back to Fleming, but it's been a lot. This time it came back and while not perfect, it actually worked! I tried the CCI stingers, as the kit suggests and they worked ok, but it's tough to say if they worked better than the Remington thunderbolts. It seemed to work better with 2 out of the 3 magazines, one of which is a 10 rounder. These are the only 2 magazines I've tried that work. As I said, it wasn't a perfect trip to the range, there were some failures to eject, but not as prolific as before, and, the kit is quite dirty. There were also 3 failures to extract from the chamber... Check the video out to the right...
Mac10 w/ Practical Solutions Uzi stock & front flip grip
Here, the stock is extended
Suppressor added, flip grip folded.
A close up of the Practical Solutions "flip grip"
A close up of the Mac10 "Uzi stock"
Fleming a.k.a. Subcal .22 kit for the Mac 10. Don't waste your money...
My 'replacement' Subcal upper. Notice anything wrong?
Here's a close up ...
First shot with the new Subcal upper receiver. You can see, I didn't get far.
Great... if the marginal magazines, poor workmanship, not giving a shit about your customers wasn't enough, the failures to extract were back...
This range session is stacking up to be a loser...
What? You didn't really expect this P.O.S. to work did you?
Apologies on the poor focus. This is a FTE and subsequent attempt to chamber
FTE, crushed case... there were many more of these, I got tired of taking their pictures.
But not too tired, obviously...Here's another...
I had a few more pictures of the various types of malfs... But this typified the entire range session.
As evidenced from the pictures above, the Subcal .22 conversion kit for the Mac10 didn't work out too well. Even so, it was a marked improvement over what I got for $440. The first kit wouldn't function at all. Yes, you could fire 1 round, but that was it. At least the 2nd kit fired more than one shot... Even if it was only twice. You can see that the ejection is a problem, this session was conducted only with supplied magazines from the kit. Some of those maladies may be able to be cured with better magazines, but probably not.
I note for the record that upon the disastrous first trip to the range with the original kit, I took the unprecedented (for me) step of attempting to return the kit for a refund. I didn't want another "project" of an item which wouldn't work, needed tinkering sucking up valuable time that I really don't have. Of course, Bill refused. And of course, he doesn't accept credit cards either, so customers who get his pieces of shit can't dispute the charges, and essentially are left with a very expensive paper weight.
If you are thinking about a .22 for fully automatic fire, look elsewhere. The subcal kit performs poorly when it performs at all. For your investment you get a one year warranty and you pay shipping.